Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Aubrey Shawl Pattern

A simple lace shawl, worked from side to side. Pattern is written for fingering weight yarn but can also be used with other yarn weights. Use a needle several sizes larger than called for on the ball band.




Materials
Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi (195 yd/skein), 2 skeins
Size 10.5 straight or circular needles
Tapestry needle
Coil-less safety pin or removable stitch marker (optional)

Gauge: not critical

Abbreviations
yo – yarn over
kfb – knit into front and back of stitch
k2tog – knit two together

Pattern Notes
This stitch pattern is based on garter stitch and will be very stretchy from side to side.

After a few rows have been completed, you may wish to place a coil-less safety pin or removable stitch marker to indicate the right side of the work. I usually place a colored elastic on the end of one of my needles – when I’m working with the marked needle, I’m on a right side row.

If possible, join new balls of yarn at the beginning of a WS row to facilitate weaving in of ends.

Pattern

Cast on 2.

Work increase section as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last stitch, kfb
Row 2 (WS): Knit
Row 3 (RS): *yo, k2tog* to last stitch, kfb
Row 4 (WS): Knit

Repeat these four rows 38 times or until shawl is half of desired width, ending with Row 4. (Note: If you are using two equally sized balls of yarn, do not wait until the first ball runs out to work the center rows. Give yourself some wiggle room and work the center before half of your yarn is gone.)

Work center rows one time:
Row 1 (RS): Knit
Row 2 (WS): Knit

Work decrease section as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *yo, k2tog* to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 2 (WS): Knit
Row 3 (RS): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 4 (WS): Knit

Repeat these four rows until 2 stitches remain. Knit last two stitches together. Break yarn and draw through last stitch. Weave in ends. Block, if desired, to even out triangular shape.

17 comments:

Crystal Palace Yarns said...

This is lovely!
May we link to your blog from our Crystal Palace web page to show your pattern off?

Susan at CPY

sarah said...

thats really pretty :)

Barbara said...

What a lovely shawl! I believe I will try this

Sharon said...

Loved the photo of the shawl. I ordered the yarn and started it today. Somehow I do not end up with the right number of stitches on row 3. I end up with 2 sts after the last yarn over of the row..not enough to finish the yarn over knit two together pattern and end with a knit in front and back. Any suggestions??
P S: I'm using "jungle" color. It's very pretty.

ShelbyD said...

Sharon, thanks for your interest in the pattern. The problem you describe will occur if for some reason you have an even number of stitches on the needle when beginning Row 3 of the increase section. This may happen if you forget to knit the front and back of the last stitch on Row 1, or if a k2tog is missed, or if the first yarn over in a previous Row 3 is missed. (These are just the mistakes I personally made - there are most likely other possible causes!) If you don't want to rip back, you can end the troublesome row with yo, K1, kfb, but depending on where the oopsie occurred this may cause your yarnover pattern to be less even than desired. Good luck!

Anonymous said...

Is this more of a stole with a rectanglar shape? Or, is there a rounded/pointed back? Thanks

ShelbyD said...

The shawl is triangular

Tiffany said...

That is absolutely beautiful! I think I can manage to knit that with your excellent instructions.

Sheryl said...

I love this pattern and started making one of these, but after about 3/4 finished ripped it out! I had some weird spots where I think I started doing the decreases/increases on the wrong side so it looked all weird and I didn't think I could save it. Do you have a picture of what the finished shawl should look like all laid out? I wasn't sure if it's supposed to be triangular or diamond shaped??

Cheryl said...

Just curious - just found this pattern and have the Mini Mochi and am anxious to start, so I was reading the pattern and am curious about starting rows with a YO - can this really be done or do you just start with the first stitch or did I miss something in reading the pattern?

Thanks!

ShelbyD said...

Cheryl, thanks for your comment. You can start a row with a yarnover. It seems to be easier for people who hold the yarn in their left hand. If it isn't working well for you, or you don't like the edge that the initial YO gives you, you can try casting on two more stitches at the beginning, and then starting each right side row with Knit 2. People who have posted their projects on Ravelry have also come up with some other slight modifications, if you'd like to check those out.

Sheena said...

Hi!

I've made it to about a quarter of the way in the decreases. I've noticed that the decrease side isn't symmetrical with the increase side (I've followed the pattern almost exactly, only adding two more increases before the middle). Has this been an issue for others, and will blocking (which I intended to do anyway) help to fix this?

Thanks :)

ShelbyD said...

Sheena, the triangle formed is not exactly symmetrical. If you'd prefer a more even triangle shape, blocking will help.

Knitty said...

This goes under YO at the beginning of the row. I thought it might be helpful to post a description of how this is done:

The yarn is wrapped around an empty needle. Yarn from previous row goes from purl side to behind empty needle and is wrapped around once to the front then extends to the back and is hanging down to the lap when completed (not above the wrap).

So to shorten the description, I would call it a "Reverse YO knit-wise".

Luisa said...

Hi Shelby,
What color mini mochi did you use?
Thanks.

CEG said...

I used this pattern to knit a prayer shawl for my sister-in-law who just had sudden worsening of her MS symptoms. I used Lion Brand Homespun color Tudor using size fifteen needles since I need a project that would be finished quickly (only 32 repeats for a shawl approx 80x32) It came out beautifully, a nice rainbow effect. I had some trouble getting the decrease side to work at first and discovered that I was inserting a yarn over before the final knit two together on each right side row. It helped me to place a marker ten stitches from the edge on a right side row which allowed me to easily see whether I had an even number of stitches or odd on each row and catch errors more quickly. When the marker reached the edge I repositioned it 10 stitches in. CEG

Anonymous said...

I don't understand the "Work Center Rows." Are these rows worked between the last increase row and the beginning of the decrease rows?