Swaying Socks

I was buying something completely unrelated a few months ago on Amazon, and happened to see some yarn in the corner of the screen, because the Internet knows my weaknesses.  I was easily swayed and somehow it ended up in my shopping cart.  Flash forward to a few days ago, when I was puttering around at home, wanting to knit but unenthusiastic about WIPs.  I pulled this yarn out of the cabinet and starting sketching out some charts on the back of the grocery list.

The sock is knit from the top down with a ribbed cuff and a heel flap construction.  The fabric will stretch to accommodate various sizes, but sizing can also be adjusted by increasing or decreasing stitch count in multiples of 8.

Materials

Needles: Set doublepointed needles, size 1.5 (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Tapestry needle

Yarn: 350-400 yards sock/fingering weight yarn. Sample pair was knitted with Patons Kroy Stripes (50g, 166 yards per skein - 2 skeins)

Gauge: 8 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch

Size: Women’s medium

Abbreviations:

K - knit

P - purl

ssk - slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together

K2tog - knit two together

yo - yarn over

* - repeat between * until indicated otherwise

Cuff

Using long tail cast on, cast on 64 stitches. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist stitches. Tail from cast on will serve as a marker for the beginning of the round.

Cuff round:  *P1,K2,P1* to end of round.  Work 12 cuff rounds or to desired cuff length.

Leg

Round 1 and all odd rounds: *P1, K6, P1* to end of round

Round 2: *P1, ssk, K4, yo, P1* to end of round

Round 4: *P1, K1, ssk, K3, yo, P1* to end of round
Round 6: *P1, K2, ssk, K2, yo, P1* to end of round

Round 8: *P1, K3, ssk, K1, yo, P1* to end of round
Round 10: *P1, yo, K4, K2tog, P1* to end of round

Round 12: *P1, yo, K3, K2tog, P1* to end of round
Round 14: *P1, yo, K2, K2tog, P1* to end of round
Round 16: *P1, yo, K1, K2tog, P1* to end of round

Work leg pattern  to desired length of leg, ending with an odd row of the pattern.

Heel

Heel flap is worked back and forth on the 32 stitches in the last half of the round. The stitches on the first and second needles form the instep and will rest while the heel is fashioned.

Turn the work to begin working the heel on the wrong side. 

Row 1 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to end of row

Row 2 (RS): *Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, K1*, repeat to end of row

Repeat these two rows 15 times. Repeat Row 1 once more.

Heel turn begins on the right side of the work and incorporates short rows to form the three-dimensional heel.

Row 1 (RS): Slip 1, K16, ssk, K1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn.

Note the gap that is evident between the unworked stitches on the needle and the last worked stitch in the short rows.

Row 3 (RS): Slip 1, K to one stitch before the gap, ssk, K1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Slip 1, P to one stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked. Knit across heel stitches.

Gusset and Foot

Rearrange stitches as follows. Slip half of the heel stitches (Needle 1) to a free needle (Needle 3). Slip instep stitches on to a single needle (Needle 2). Needle 2 now has 32 stitches. 

Beginning with Needle 1, which has half of the heel stitches, pick up 16 stitches along the heel flap. Work across Needle 2 in next row of leg pattern. With a free needle, pick up 16 stitches along the heel flap and knit across the remaining heel stitches.

Needle 1 now holds half of the foot stitches, Needle 2 has the instep stitches, and Needle 3 holds the other half of the foot stitches. Beginning of round is at center bottom of foot.

Gusset Round 1: Knit to last three stitches on Needle 1, K2tog, K1. Work across Needle 2 in established pattern. On Needle 3, K1, ssk, knit to end of round.

Gusset Round 2: Knit Needle 1. Work across Needle 2 in established pattern. Knit Needle 3.

Repeat these two rounds until there are 64 stitches remaining.

Work even on Needles 1 and 3, maintaining established pattern on Needle 2, until foot is 1.75 inches shorter than desired length, ending with an odd row of the pattern.

Toe

Toe Round 1: Knit to last three stitches on Needle 1, K2tog, K1. K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches on Needle 2, K2tog, K1. K1, ssk, knit to end of Needle 3.

Toe Round 2: Work even.

Repeat these two rounds until there are 32 stitches remaining. Repeat first round until there are 16 stitches remaining. Knit stitches on Needle 1 to bring yarn to side of toe for finishing.

Finishing

Slip stitches from Needle 3 to Needle 1. Use kitchener stitch to join toe stitches together. Break yarn. Weave in ends.

Variation
If desired, work first sock beginning at round 1 of pattern and second sock beginning with round 9 of pattern.  All other instructions remain the same.

Korknisse

Working on the annual coworker holiday gifts.  This year I am using the Korknisse pattern and a bag of corks leftover from last year's mini trees.  I knit a bit in the car on the way to and from our family Thanksgiving visit but haven't invested much time yet. Probably need at least 8 more at minimum.  I am doubling fingering weight from my scrap bag for most of these, on a size 3 needle. 

Pattern translated into English: http://www.saartjeknits.nl/patterns/Korknisse.html

Wesley Crib Blanket Pattern

This simple blanket pattern uses log cabin techniques to create a cozy keepsake for the modern crib or stroller.  Make one for a small human in your life.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn in 4 colors. Sample shown uses Lion Brand Wool-Ease.
Color A (dark grey): 394 yards
Color B (dark blue): 394 yards
Color C (light blue-green): 394 yards
Color D (light grey): 194 yards

Size 9 circular needle, 32" or longer, or size needed to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle

Size: 30 inches x 48 inches

Gauge: 14 stitches per 4 inches in garter stitch

Note:  Blanket is worked back and forth on circular needle.  Stitches are picked up and bound off with right side facing.  Two rows of knitting create one garter ridge (wrong side + right side = one garter ridge).  When counting garter ridges, the last row will be the bindoff row worked on the right side.

Pattern

Blocks

Block A:  With Color A, cast on 50 stitches.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 50 garter ridges.
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Block B: With Color B, pick up and knit 50 stitches from the bindoff row of Block A, with right side facing.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 50 garter ridges.
With right side facing, bind off all stitches.  Break yarn.

Block C: With Color C, pick up and knit 50 stitches from the bindoff row of Block B, with right side facing.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 50 garter ridges.
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Stripes

Stripe 1: Turn piece lengthwise with Block A to your right and Block C to your left.
With right side facing and Color D, beginning with the corner of Block A, pick up and knit in each slipped stitch along the edge of Blocks A, B, and C.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 12 garter ridges (24 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Stripe 2: With Color A, pick up and knit all stitches from the bindoff row of Stripe 1, with right side facing.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 12 garter ridges (24 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Stripe 3: With Color B, pick up and knit all stitches from the bindoff row of Stripe 2, with right side facing.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 12 garter ridges (24 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Stripe 4: With Color C, pick up and knit all stitches from the bindoff row of Stripe 3, with right side facing.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 12 garter ridges (24 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Border

Edge 1: Turn piece so that Stripes are to the right and Blocks are to the left.
With right side facing and Color D, beginning with the corner of Stripe 4, pick up and knit in each slipped or bound off stitch along the row.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 2 garter ridges (4 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. DO NOT break yarn.

Edge 2: Rotate piece 90 degrees to the right.  Continuing with Color D, pick up and knit in each slipped or bound off stitch along the row.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 2 garter ridges (4 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. DO NOT break yarn.

Edge 3: Rotate piece 90 degrees to the right.  Continuing with Color D, pick up and knit in each slipped or bound off stitch along the row.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 2 garter ridges (4 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. DO NOT break yarn.

Edge 4: Rotate piece 90 degrees to the right.  Continuing with Color D, pick up and knit in each slipped or bound off stitch along the row.
Slip the first stitch as if to purl, knit to end.
Repeat this row, slipping the first stitch on each row, knitting back and forth to create 2 garter ridges (4 rows).
With right side facing, bind off all stitches. Break yarn.

Finishing

Weave in ends.  Block if desired.

Descending into Madness

I have been participating in Sock Madness for the first time.  I am a member of Team Courageous.  The competition is currently in Round 3, and so far I am still in it!  My husband has co-opted both my round 2 and 3 pairs as they are a bit big for me. 

Gray socks below are round one, Brucies.  Purple socks are round two, Diamond Shreddies. Rainbow cuff socks are around three when they were in progress, Rainbow Pipes and Linen Stitch.

While waiting for the next round to begin, I have been working on a log cabin baby blanket for a friend from work.  Also have a second impending workplace baby to knit for and have no clue what to start.

In a moment of weakness, since the Madness has been so enjoyable, I also signed up for Tour de Sock, and will be knitting along with other members of my Sock Madness team.

Note to self: Self, the entrelac blanket WIP is in the office closet. You will not remember on your own.

Tiny Trees

These are too cute: Pint Sized Pines

Have a bag of green and greenlike scraps with me as we travel today to give it a shot.

Run Up Cowl

My husband is riding a cyclocross race tomorrow, and the kids are planning to go watch. It's going to be really cold, so knitterly logic leads me to knit something today. Pulled a skein of Malabrigo Rasta out if the stash and one gymnastics lesson later I have this snugly cowl.

Pattern is LTYC Super Bulky Cowl, free in Ravelry, and perfect for this yarn! Would be an excellent last minute holiday gift.

Love at First Sight

One of the tasks in a current challenge in the Stash Knit Down group that I frequent on Ravelry is to take an impulse buy from the stash and make something with it, which is why you bought it in the first place.  Spent time today swatching and working out a chart for a shawl design.  Have cast on now in some blue-grey Malabrigo Sock that I picked up on our vacation to Cambria last year, in the spirit of using up some of the too-nice-to-use stash. May have overdone the knitting today as my elbow is complaining, but it's hard to stop when I want to see how it's going to turn out.